If one needed an illustration of how religous fanatism can bring a culture down, one should come to Bagan. The town was once the capital of a powerful kingdom, that collapsed in the 12th century, after an unmatched building frenzy of temples ruined the state and a fertile valley was turned into a treeless desert as vegetation had been cut down in order to bake the bricks that where needed to construct the temples.

However, Bagan remains "one of the wonders of the world and the major highlight of any visit to Myanmar" (Moon Travel Handbook). The place surpasses our wildest expectations. A hot, dusty valley on the Ayeyarwaddy River - spangled with magnificent temple ruins that come in all styles and sizes. A sunset behind a golden silhouette of temples watched from a
                                              temple's top is
                                              unforgettable. 

Bagan's fascination lies in the whole arrangement of the place and the temples are best appreaciated from the distance, as their interior is usually rather unspectacular - bleak, narrow chambers filled with Buddha statues. Temple visitors should be cautious when walking through the fields as several incidents with poisenous snakes have been reported. But usually hawkers that linger around the more frequented temples are  probably the greatest annoyance.